Pushing whats possible in 12 hours

Winner of Stitch, Please! Episode 1

The Hunger Games brief.

£100 and 12 hours.

I was really excited about the brief because despite having a budget of £100 and 12-hours making time, there was just so much that I could do. Design-wise, the costume could be luxurious, utilitarian or even armoured. I chose to be inspired by the Peacekeeper military force within the Hunger Games, as they have really interesting insect-like armour.

Their all-white look was perfect for the budget as it meant that I just had to source anything white that I could find from scrap stores which kept costs down.

Design Development

The design went through many revisions as I began to practice making and timing myself running up to the show. I really had to concentrate on simplicity over complexity to save time. This also helped the overall look become cleaner and more futuristic which I was really happy with. Slowly, peplum panels were removed and details on the sleeves and shoulders disappeared which thankfully meant that I had fewer components to make on the show. This process of elimination was tough but needed as fewer components meant that way less materials were needed. Every trial I had made at home of the fins on the sleeves had failed, it was either too messy or they didn't flare out in the way I wanted. As you can see on the revised back design I had accommodated for the centre back seam on the peplum panels and removed the last of the fins on the sleeves. The revised designs were done on the plane on my way to Ireland so I could remind myself of what I needed to do.

Final Design

Design Elements & Inspiration

  • Using Pattern Magic's Takenoko fabric manipulation pattern to replicate the ribbed beetle-like breastplate armour.

  • Their wasp-like helmets are their main feature as it covers any sign of human features, making the Peacekeepers more like robots so I knew I had to do something similar, with a stiff short wig to give my head the helmet shape and a covid visor.

  • I still didn't want to look human as I knew the visor still showed my face so white-out blind contacts helped give me a more android look.

  • I am quite self-conscious about my upper arms so the sleeves were added to make me more comfortable and cover more of my skin in optic white.

  • To continue some of the hard elements on the Peacekeeper design I wanted to create a formed breastplate inspired by the works of Alexander Mcqueen (whose garments were used on the show) and the more recent Tom Ford high gloss breastplates. This would add a technical armoured look and a nice balance between hard and soft on the costume.

  • Asymmetrical designs on the heels replicate the same details on the Peacekeepers.

  • They also have a massive exoskeleton spine detail that I of course wanted to recreate.

I spent three weeks practising my corset work, as well my pattern work to prepare, but one thing I didn’t practise was the spine at the back of the garment because I could not afford to waste my materials, mostly sourced from the Dorset Scrap Store. The pressure got to me last minute, and as you see in the show, I’ve glued the attachment onto wet paint and that was definitely a mistake!
You always watch TV shows and wonder how much work goes on behind the scenes, especially for people preparing to take part. Now I know and it’s a lot! It was daunting balancing preparing for the show whilst also trying to keep up with my coursework, but it was a really fun experience, and I’m really glad that I took on that challenge!

modelled by Alice Ronney

Photographed by Jonathan Beal and Richard Tarr

“We are so pleased for Kathy with her amazing success on Stitch, Please! Kathy is a wonderfully creative design student who is always looking to challenge herself and learn new skills. Coupled with an extraordinary attention to detail and a sense of style, this makes Kathy a really strong all-rounder.”

Will Hargreaves, Senior Lecturer in Performance Design and Film Costume

“Kathy’s talent in 3D costume came to the fore on this project, and she has produced a dynamic costume for this competition. Kathy’s reimagining of the Hunger Games  aesthetic is original and dramatic, and her determination and work ethic were evident throughout – this is a credit to her and her course.”

Mandy Barrington, Senior Lecturer in Costume at Arts University Bournemouth

Testimonials